basic Information :These series of guns are usually a hammerless version of the famous model 94 single shot hammer kind shotgun, with countless parts interchangeable. Information accessible says they to be made from 1938 come 1965 in four different variations/series. The version 219 was a rifle made in 22 Hornet, 25-20, 32-20 and also 30-30, with most likely the 30-30 the many popular. When the companion model 220 shotgun was made in 410, 28 ga, 20 ga, 16 ga, and 12ga. Over there was also a 220P and a 220AC. These were simply regular shotguns the had manufacturing facility installed Polly Choke because that the "P", or Savage Accura Choke for the "AC".
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You might even get combo firearms with both rifle and also shotgun barrels. The rifle structure has a lot smaller firing pin to facilitate shooting of the rifle primers, so as soon as the gun to be a combo, the rifle receiver to be used instead of the much larger firing pen of the shotgun. For this combo guns using the little firing pin, they seemed to duty OK, but not ideal.
for simplicity here in the details section, ns will just list the more popular shotgun variations, yet the rifle variations follow the same suffix letter pattern. These include the initial 220, then a 220A, 220B, 220L and also a 220LD, and very small info ~ above the 220 D. The 220 and also 220A offered an in-line hefty mainspring set off firing pin. The 220 and 220A were very comparable EXCEPT the 220A supplied a different firing pin, sear and also trigger. There is evidence of a design 219C, (one for sale) yet no documentation deserve to be found, also in the factory parts list.
I have actually not been able to discover information designating as soon as each suffix series was introduced, other than what i gleaned native The Blue book of total Values. The 220 to be made a year earlier beginning in 1937. Both the 219 and 220 ceased production throughout WWII. I have actually no info on the 219A/220A. And also I doubt the 219B/220Bcame out after the war (1946) as soon as the manufacturing facility moved come Chicopee falls Mass. The 219L/220L was made just from 1965 to 1967.
The 220B was a completely different internal style using a pivoting inner hammer, and also the manufacturing facility had a note on the bottom of the parts page for the 219B and 220B"It is not our policy to fit interchangeable interchangeable barrels of different calibers or gauges on this models". Which speak me the more recent variations did no have strong enough hammer/firing pin fall for the rifle firing pen to ignite the shotgun primer, and also the bigger shotgun firing pin does not dent the rifle primer effectively.
The critical versions, 220L and also 220LD was a entirely different frame utilizing similarities of the then current model 940 shotgun which offered a side lever to open up the gun instead of the old format top lever. They likewise used a different internal pivoting hammer. The trigger housing assembly to be a sheet steel "slide in" unit that had actually to use "SLAVE PINS" to rally it right into the frame. The just thing I deserve to see different between the L and also LD series is the buttstock and frame, which speak me the the LD was most likely a deluxe version.
here in this article we will certainly be focusing MAINLY through the original version 219.
|Below space both the hammer model 94 & the hammerless 220 shotgun because that comparision|| Savage 94B |
|Here is one exploded see from a 1985 Savage parts directory|
For those of you that can not read in between the lines and have a 219, yes a model 94 shotgun barrel have the right to be fitted to this frame.
My History:Being a gunsmith because 1959, I have actually ran right into a few of this hammerless guns. But the an initial chance to own one was probably in the so late 1970s. (1) I gained a version 219, 30-30 that had remained in a negative house fire. Every it was, to be badly rusted pieces of metal, the barrel to be scaled badly both inside and also out, and badly BENT. All the springs were past usage also if I could have re-heat treated them. The trigger guard was very early stamped out sheet steel style and also probably the same supplied on the model 311 twin barrel shotguns, and it was salvageable. This pistol was totally destroyed as much as all valuable purposes.
It has actually a Utica NY attend to on the barrel.
At the time I had just to buy a reboring and rifling machine. OK, ns hammered top top the barrel, knocking turn off the hefty scale. I then straightened it ideal I could. I decided to bore it come 35 caliber and chamber it to 35 Winchester. I had actually to shorten the barrel 3 inches due to the fact that of the front vision threaded holes and this huge bore that ns was walk to, yet they originally had actually 26" barrels, therefore no big deal.
Boy to be this particular barrel soft and also bent easily. At that time, I needed re-boring practice, so set it up and rebored/rifled it come 35 caliber but I did no chamber that then. What was left of that then satellite in a corner of the shop for probably 25 years. Sooner or later I stumbled onto that again, and also nearing retirement, "what might I carry out to make this duty again"? My original intent to be to do it into a 35 Winchester which had a rimmed case, (fitting the original style of the gun) and also at the time I additionally owned a Winchester version 1895 in that very same caliber.
ns chambered it to the caliber and also tried to gain it into something the went BANG. I cleaned up several of the usable fire damaged parts, and re-heat-treated the locking block, firing pin and also sear/trigger. However the firing pin spring (mainspring) was of a size and also strength that nothing the I might duplicate or fabricate would strike the primer sufficient force come ignite it. OK, it sat for another 10 years or so. Then my son uncovered a bag of inner parts the fit my gun because that sale on the internet and also bought them for me. OK, now with the manufacturing facility mainspring in, ns was ready. Yet in the meantime had sold the Winchester and the ammo that i had, and purchasing new brass for this experiment did no seem logical.
much more searching and also I uncovered that a 303 British instance was close at the rim and also rear body together the 35 Winchester, but brief in as whole length. I had a few old rounds of ammo, and it went BANG. However fire-forming this 303, the neck came out actual SHORT. Hey this was a start, now why not try 30-40 Krag brass, which was close to the size of the 303, however a tad little longer. I found practically a full box the old 30-40 ammo in mine STUFF. Climate somewhere ns came across a provided buttstock native a Savage model 94 shotgun that fit, which make this small gun right into something shootable. No forearm however however, however the fire damaged forend metal hosted it ~ above the barrel. Therefore fire the 30-40 ammo in the gun, fire-forming this case to a to reduce 35 Winchester brass. This ammo to be old, and I lost around 1/2 of the brass early out to separating in the fire-forming process. The necks room short, only about 3/16" long, however in this single shot, and also with lead bullets it has actually possibilities.
now with brass ~ above the reloading bench, ns used cast 200 grain gas confirm lead bullets and loaded them up to the same load as a 35 Remington. Ns have an additional box of fired 30-40 brass, yet for these, I will certainly anneal the prior 1/3rd, to reduced down on brass mortality.
i have restored it now, all the parts cleaned, re-heat cure if needed, polished and also blued. A new forearm to be made and also the buttstock sanded down and also refinished. An original rear sight and a Williams shorty base front sight and a .312" Marble front sight was added. QD sling swivel studs installed, the front stud soft soldered come the barrel in former of the forearm.
|Here is a photograph of mine 219 in 35 Winchester ~ it's reserection|
(2) gun number 2 is the very same old model 219 yet in 22 Hornet, a more recent version because it has actually a aluminum trigger guard. This one simply happened to be at a neighborhood gun show. I commonly go come this display every month, not searching for anything really, yet addicted. The man selling this to be a girlfriend of mine. This gun"s problem was very Good, but someone had actually drilled and also tapped it for a side-mount scope and then as soon as it, and also the scope had parted ways, who drilled and also tapped installation Remington 700 sights top top the barrel due to the fact that the scope and mount was not through the gun.
The seller was rather of a gunsmith, however his specialization was in pistols and the top lever was loose on this gun, he construed some the the interior mechanics, and also since selling it ~ above consignment, go not want to get trapped the going within to fix that. Therefore I carried it residence with me.
being the ripe young age of 81 and just gift diagnosed v Wet Macular Degeneration on my only eye, I wanted to border it, however not a side-mount, together in this instance the scope would not be focused over the bore. And also partly because side-mounts are hard to find now days and also I walk not desire to drill any an ext holes if possible. In mine scope mount/sight scrap crate I discovered a side mount base that the 2 external of the 4 holes matched 2 that the 4 holes already drilled and tapped ~ above the barrel. I likewise found a solitary full size top base.
The idea popped into my head come screwthe basic onto the barrel, mount that in my milling an equipment and mill both bases to match at an angle, make the height one true flat and centered through the barrel. Climate Heliarc weld lock together, basically making one adapter type mount making use of the side-mount holes, however the border ring basic of a top mount. With this machining done, then I had to build a fixture to hold the two parts together while they were welded together. This brand-new mount came out pretty darned great and mine alignment was great in the it lays really close to the peak of the barrel and with a old 3 strength Weaver classic scope, things are starting to look up. And also these tapped mount holes were the bigger 8-40 size, holding better than the standard 6-48, so for the time being at least, I just may use it with just the 2 scope base screws.
So check fire a pair of ring and, WOW, miscellaneous is wrong here. NO,but it has been just re-chambered come a 22 K Hornet, (an enhanced straighter situation and much more bottlenecked.)
but the trigger pull was heavy and the automatic safety system did no function. So tear into it. I discovered the auto safety parts were missing, yet they simply happened to it is in in the baggy of parts that my son had bought for my other gun. OK, I gained the firing pen sear notch corrected because that a lighter create pull.
but the safety button would no slide right into the fire position from using the button, however I could get it to go if encouraged it from underneath (with the stock off). What I uncovered was the the prior bottom edge of the safety switch was sharp and was stopping at the front leaf of the slot that rides in. A happen or two through a record corrected that. Indigenous this it seemed that the previous GUNSHMIDT might not discover this problem, for this reason he just left the end the components that push the safety earlier onto safe setting on opening the gun.
The loose top bar apparently was due to the fact that of due to the fact that this frame was a casting and then machined indigenous there, the thickness that the steel on height at the top lever was thinner on this gun, for this reason I simply made a plastic washer out of the peak of a butter container, and also placing it between the lever and top the the frame, tightening the bar up.
Now relocate onto an ext cosmetics, the ugly sights top top a sleek old gun. Both front and also rear were drilled and also tapped into the barrel (slightly crooked by the way). For the former sight, no big deal as making use of a typical used manufacturing facility sight turn off a Savage version 340 which to be what to be originally provided on this model, and the extra hole is merely covered up.
but for the rear, the initial rear vision was the very same as shown being supplied in the picture above, dovetailed right into the barrel, The rear sight (when I acquired it) was attached through drilling and also tapping 2 holes near the dovetail. No GOOD. Yet for these i plugged lock with longer 6-48 screws and then reduced off the excess. This now was Heliarc welded over, climate filed down and and polished, then the entirety barrel reblued. As soon as done, a Lyman urgent rear sight was installed, i m sorry is not original, but vintage and also usable also with the limit on or off as it is just high sufficient to see over the new scope basic after milling a shallow radiused groove under the facility of the new scope base. This pistol now has some eye appeal and also considerable much better resale value if I ever decide to let it go.
This gun has barrel markings the Chicopee falls Mass.
|Here is a picture of mine 219 in 22 K Hornet after it's reconditioning|
Gunsmithing :If you ever need come do any internal repairs, this is one that, if you room a human who gets exasperated when things do not go as intended, you will need to do many tries before you get it going, or think choose the various other gunshmidt, things might not walk well.
In reassembling these models, it have the right to be an extremely exasperating, as hefty springs need to be compressed and in come confined spaces, along with parts need to go with each other in a particular order. If the is not captivated, and also you try to rally it in the total separately, you might be crawling approximately on the floor in search of parts the went flying. If ns was a manufacturing facility assembler and also working piecework, this is one i would fairly pass on, unless they has some an enig assembly techniques back then.
Reassembly :(1) an initial off, the front trigger guard screw has to be installed at an early stage as the goes in from the inside before anything rather is installed. (NOTE here, if the pistol is the an extremely early like my 35 Winchester discussed above, that screw comes in from the outside). On every the later versions this is organized in by a huge headed slotted device screw that demands to walk in very first (before the top lever unit) together the top bar hole is aligned straight over this screw for simple tightening. IF yet you want to complicated things, you have the right to put it in after the optimal lever and even locking bolt (#134), yet your screwdriver have the right to go whereby you have the right to not get a direct purchase top top it because it is inside the frame and rather buried. Many times the subject in the aluminum create guard has become stripped and also the screw does not go in depths than probably 3 threads. This threads space an strange ball perhaps a #7 and also fine threads, contributing come this situation. And buying a brand-new screw does not deal with the problem. What ns did to be to drill that out and also tap come the following size larger, a #8-32. Climate I uncovered a round head 8-32 Philips head (stainless stole in this case). My thinking was through the head buried, possibly the Philips head would allow far better grip, (but this Philips is impossible to tighten if you perform the later on installation). I also made the screw a little bit longer (.350") under the head, and also deepened the hole in the create guard, and additionally tapping it for much more threads for a far better grip.
(2) Next, you deserve to slide the peak snap arm (#196) in native the underneath side v the foot down and also on the LH side of the frame, and align the center bar and also screw hole with the top bar hole. Ar the top bar down right into the hole and also install the screw, tightening it until it i do not care tight.
(3) on slide the locking bolt in indigenous the front through the much longer leg come the right. Jockey it about until you gain the foot (leverage arm) up and also into the round hole ~ above the RH side of the slide the top snap arm. Currently you deserve to insert the locking bolt and sear pin (#135) in native the RH side enough to hole the RH component of the locking bolt.
(4) download the sear and also trigger feather (#209) right into the round hole in the bottom behind of the locking bolt. That should have actually just sufficient resistance to keep it's position there.
(5) set the fame and parts you have actually just assembled aside and also now concentrate on the firing pin assembly.
(6) rally the firing pen unit (safety press rod #198, firing pin #77, and also bridge #24. Over there is a 1/16" ring hole crosswise in the behind of the firing pin. This is therefore you can compress every little thing together and then captivate lock as displayed in the photo below. To do this you deserve to clamp the firing pin front human body (while protecting the tip) in a vise, slide the spring over both the shooting pin and safety pushy pole (which lays in a shallow grove on peak of the firing pin), on slide the bridge on using the tiny square hole, push the bridge down making use of the long end for leverage. And also when the bridge is front compressing the spring much enough, press a small nail or section of 1/16" welding rod with the hole, captivating the spting and also bridge together.
(7) slide the sear (#205) right into position in the leg as seen in the photograph below.
(8) slide the create into the frame, but position it to the rear and also out the the method for the moment being. (A far better time is later on (#13) together reassembly is a bear through it interfering).
(9) slide the shooting pin and also sear unit into the framework from the RH side. With the help of a light, locate the firing pin hole in the frame and start the firing pin tip right into that hole.
(10) Jiggle this unit, push it front to whereby the top and also bottom of the leg aligns through the slot of the frame. Madness the bridge right into the frame and flush v the political parties of the frame.
(11) Be sure that the locking bolt pin is donate out and only protruding in native the RH side just through the RH next of the locking bolt (you need this room to place the sear in).
(12) place the behind of the sear so that is currently in the cocked place with the firing pen sear notch. This pretty well positions the sear lengthwise. Push/tap the locking block pin right into the sear hole, and drive it every the way in.
(13) This time of installation the create is better, however you sacrifice a bit of the trigger guard tightness. V the rear trigger guard screw out, turn it to the left sufficient to allow the create to be placed into the slot in the bottom of the frame. Slide the cause into the slot native the bottom of the frame, over the sear and aligning it's pivot pin hole. Push the retainer pin right into the frame/trigger.
(14) place the safety lever (#194) to where it's feet aligns v the feet in the frame, as viewed below, download it's pivot pin. Keep in mind the pivot hole has to be to the rear.
(15) download the safety switch (#193) into the structure slot. Insert the safety switch stud (#294) into the safety and security hole from the LH side. Download the safety spring (#201) into the little hole in the upper part of the frame, with the rounded hook end forward and also behind the head that the stud. This spring has actually a slight protrusion ~ above the bottom the rides up and over the stud, retaining that in either for sure or FIRE position. Be sure the rear tail that the feather is into the slot/hole all the way so the does not prevent the stock from being installed.
(16) now install the safety push rod feather (#199) behind tail into the slot at the bottom that the frame. Now you will require a needle sleep pliers come grip the center of this spring and force it down while aligning it into the hole on the bottom of the press rod.
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(17) push the top snap, otherwise recognized as the height lever, all the method to the appropriate compressing the mainspring farther, allowing minimal anxiety on her retaining pin. Pull her retaining pen out and the activity is assembled.