Hair Segmented & Tied up & prepared For Coloring. Shot and be neat in her work. It will help!

Always use hair color on dry, unwashed hair.

You are watching: How much developer do i use

Choose developer strength according come how countless levels you must lift.Use 20 Vol developer for 1-2 levels, 30 Vol because that 2-3 levels & 40 Vol for 3 levels. If you room going much more than 3 levels lighter, you will have to use bleach first.Stick come the recommended color and also developer mix rules.For Ugly Duckling colors, the mix is 1+1. For Ugly Duckling toners & high elevator colors, the mix is 1+2.Segment hair neatly and start working from the back for a full head application.Do a 2nd application making use of fingers and gloves.Emulsify after processing is over and then rinse.


Do These points to get the Best Out that Your shade Application

1. Apply hair dye on dry, unwashed hair

All hair dye has been designed come work finest on dry, unwashed hair.The oil from her client"s hair will defend the scalp while the is gift colored.All you need to do to prepare the hair because that coloring is comb it finely so that you are ready to start sectioning. 

2. Assess how countless levels you are lifting & decide your developer selection on the basis.

Do a really accurate evaluate of every component of her client"s hair.The key questions you must ask yourself are (a) "What level is the hair now?" and (b) "What level execute you must lighten in to?"The difference in between the 2 will aid you recognize the stamin of developer you will certainly use and also whether you will should use lightener or not.Your developer choice will be a result of the variety of levels that you space lifting by.


For level ~ above level coloring, use 10 Vol developer.For 1-2 levels lift, usage 20 Vol developer.For 2-3 level lift, use 30 Vol developer.For 3 levels, usage 40 Vol developer.For most cases of pre-lightening with lightener, usage either 20 or 30 Vol developer. If you are toning we usually recommend 20 Vol no 10 Vol. You will certainly get much better vibrancy the way.

When doing complete head coloring, because that the root area, constantly reduce developer toughness by 1 level.

Or use at the end to alleviate processing time. The will process faster there.


Here are some examples of hair shade to enable you come understand how to that s right assess your client"s hair color level.

The model below has level 4/5 hair. If you room trying to obtain her come level 6 dark blonde, that"s 2 levels. Use 30 Vol developer.

For the root area, usage 20 Vol developer, however. Reason: that processes much faster there.


The model listed below has level 6/7 on the regrowth area and also level 10 ~ above the ends. So 3 level of lift is required.

So you are going to must use bleach to lift that.

3. Acquire your hair color and also developer mix right. 

The appropriate mix in between hair dye and also developer will have a huge impact ~ above the hair shade result.If you put in too small developer, you i will not ~ be opened the hair cuticle enough.If you placed in too lot developer, you will certainly be lightening the hair but not depositing sufficient hair dye and the shade won’t last.So constantly measure your hair dye and also developer properly. Exactly how do you measure the hair color and developer? Use either kitchen scales or a measure bowl with markers.

For most Ugly Duckling hair color, the correct mix is 1 part hair dye to 1 component developer.For high lift cUgly Duckling colors, the correct mix is 1 part hair dye come 2 parts developer.For Ugly Duckling cream-based toners, the exactly mix is additionally 1 component toner come 2 components developer.

Use her dye brush to mix the color and also the developer right into a smooth paste through no lumps together in the photo below.If you space using Ugly Duckling color, there is a lanolin oil additive in the color which will assist make the dough nice, smooth and also oily.The lanolin likewise protects her scalp which gives higher scalp comfort during coloring.

4. How to Measure your Hair shade & Developer.

The best method is to use kitchen scales. Place the empty bowl on the range and collection to zero.Now include in your color. One complete tube that Ugly Duckling shade will typically be enough for medium size hair. (Ugly Duckling tubes are extra huge sized - 3.5 oz).Read off how numerous oz girlfriend have.

Now set it come zero again and also if you space doing color, add in the same number of ounces the developer.If you space doing toner or high elevator color, include in double the amount of developer come toner..

If you space using bleach, also add in twin the lot of developer come bleachJust remember the one pipe of Ugly Duckling Hair shade contains 3.5 oz that colorSo because that Ugly Duckling colors, if you room using 1 entirety tube, you must pour in 3.5 oz that developerFor Ugly Duckling toners and also high background colors, again because that 1 tube, girlfriend will have to pour in 7 oz the developer.


This is what a 1:1 hair shade mix looks choose - 1 component color come 1 component developer.

5. Get your Bleach and also Developer Mix Right

If you space using Ugly Duckling bleaches, the mix is 1 component bleach come 2 parts developer.

Use the scoop in her bleach bath tub to measure out your bleach, then use the very same scoop spoon come measure the end developer.With experience, you will discover to "sight-inspect" her mix and get it right without measuring.

For Ugly Duckling bleaches usage 10 or 20 Vol for the root area.

Use 20 or 30 Vol for the lengths depending upon how dark her hair is.


This is what a 1:2 bleach"developer mix looks prefer (Ugly Duckling excellent Blondexx Bleach)

6. Ar the hair properly before using hair dye

Section hair into large sections and also pin up.

Separate the hair into huge sections. Tie up sections with a clip.Leave one section (usually the lower ago section) down.On the unclipped section, begin taking ¼ inch mini-sections in bespeak to use the shade with her dye brush.Lift each strand up and also apply color from simply away indigenous the scalp come the ends.Neat, even. Well sectioning is yes, really really important. Otherwise the whole thing will come to be a mess!Once you have completed 1 large section in this way, pin up again. Then start on one more section and also do mini sections on this one in the very same way.Repeat on every sections till you have finished colour the hair.

7. Use sufficient Product.

In order to acquire the many vibrant shade possible, you have to use enough product mix and also you have to saturate the hair properly.Ugly Duckling tubes space 3.5 oz, which is more than many colors.So there is generally sufficient product for a generosity use also for a lengthy hair application.

8. Use your finger to execute the color a second time.

Run with the hair a 2nd time after using the color, with fingers (wearing gloves). Don"t hesitate to make a fresh mix if you have run out of product.Ugly Duckling shade tubes are fairly large - 3.5 oz compared to the usual 2 or 2.5 oz. Therefore one tube of color with 3.5 oz of developer should give sufficient mix for most full head applications.By making use of your fingers you deserve to spread the end the shade (avoid patches) and also deposit an ext color into the cortex simply as the cuticle is opened up. This is what renders the shade really intense and vibrant when you are dyeing hair.If her customer has actually white hair, you should also cross-check exactly how well you have covered the white hair by re-sectioning the hair and also checking the all white hair has been properly covered.Some locations such as the nape area are an especially resistant and you need to pay particular attention here. Stop using combs to color or re-color, as you can finish up destroying the hair cuticles which have actually been opened in the colour process.


Using fingers because that a second color application

9. Respect the processing time

For many colors, the processing time is 30 minutes.For toners, wash off as soon as the exactly color shows up (around 10-15 minute is normal).For high lift colors: approximately 40 minutes. Be aware that hair in ~ the scalp processes faster than almost everywhere else due to the warmth of the scalp. You need to watch this area when going lighter and also be all set to to wash as quickly as this area watch done, even if this is prior to the 30 minutes room up.


Color all done and also processing

10. Emulsify


Hair gift gently emulsified prior to the rinse.

Before rinsing, add a tiny water to the color and rub at the scalp area.Then rub well about the hairline first, then middle and nape.This process is known as emulsification.It help lock in the color into the hair, and also gives you really vibrant, long-lasting color results add to hair the feels full and an extremely well conditioned.

11. Shampoo utilizing an acidic (low pH) shampoo

Use one acidic shampoo.This will aid close the hair cuticle, lock in the color and return the hair to its herbal pH level. Don"t i think all experienced shampoo and mask is acidic and also sulfate free. Girlfriend will need to check on the label.

All Ugly Duckling shampoos room low pH.

Going Darker


Dark hair tied increase & all set for coloring. Notice how the earlier is allow down...that is whereby the colorist is going come start.

When colour darker, friend can color the root at the very same time as the lengths.The same uses during level top top level coloring.Just section the hair as explained above & use color in the typical way.

Going Lighter - Dark Regrowth

This client wants to be blonde - however her regrowth is really fairly dark. 

Lift the dark regrowth area an initial with lightener. Bring the dark component up to a very pale yellow.Then ton the whole head, beginning with the component which needs the many toning.

Going Lighter - light Regrowth


This client"s regrowth has actually been correctly lifted to a level 10.

Do the regrowth and also the end at the exact same time. Do no over procedure the regrowth area together otherwise you may acquire "hot roots"Rinse as quickly as the root have completed the desired result.

Going Lighter - lengthy Hair

With really long hair, that is best to perform the lifting in 2 stages - first lengths, climate the roots.

When the hair size is very long, the application time itself deserve to take 15-20 minute - functioning fast.In this case you don"t want to allow the color sit top top the source area too lengthy - you will obtain "hot roots".So carry out the lengths an initial and then rinse.Then execute the regrowth separately.You will get far better control that means of the lifting process.

Grey Hair Coverage 


25% grey hair.

All Ugly Duckling colors perform contain pigments which will assist color in grey hair.Nevertheless, if grey hair coverage is one issue, it might be advisable to take extra steps as described below.Mix few of the tantamount base shade (ending in "N") or extra coverage color (ending in "NN) into your desired shade choice.This is well-known as "adding the base".The preeminence is to include as much of the base together the customer has grey hair.So, because that example, include in 25% base as soon as your customer has 25% grey hair, 50% base when she has actually 50% grey hair, and so on.

Color mediate Issues


Dark blonde regrowth, yellow & brassy mid-lengths, white ends. Three various colors in this client"s hair!


Once again - 3 various colors. Red, orange and also just level brown at the roots.

If the hair is also brassy, also yellow or as well orange, he finest solution is constantly to lift an initial with a top quality bleach.We provided bleach in both the situations above. Clearly, us bleached much more in the second case contrasted to the an initial case.Ugly Duckling"s Bond protect Bleach brilliant Blondexx must be her go-to bleach because that this purpose, It has actually anti-breakage developed in and it is gentle on the hair and also the scalp area.If your client is unwilling come lift, then you will need to tone under her hair to get rid of brass.Use Ugly Duckling cold ash blonde shades (Blue based) for level 6 and lighter. Consider adding in Ash Blue Additive- that will aid tone down yellow.Use Ugly Duckling"s ash and extra ash shades because that level 6 and darker. Consider adding in Ash Grey Additive - it will aid tone under orange and also red.

Video indict 1

Violet and also Silver Blonde zero Root. Hair by Elona TakiProducts Used:Brilliant Blonde Lightener because that re-growthViolet through Intense silver- Blonde because that root areaIntense silver Blonde 100B for lengths20 Vol Developer

Video accuse 2

Lifting Dark Virgin Hair with High Lift shade - No Bleach. Hair by Elona TakiProducts Used:

100.11 High lift Deep Ash Blonde

40 Vol Developer

Video accuse 3

Lifting and also Toning asian Hair Blonde. Hair by Elona Taki

Products Used:

Brilliant Blonde Lightener

Pearl Blonde Toner 10V

20 Vol Developer

NB for a new client we always recommend a patch test 24 hours in advance.Here"s exactly how to execute it: make a tiny mix of the shade to it is in used and developer and apply onto the nape area simply behind the ear.If your customer gets no reaction in ~ 24 hours, that"s good and you can go ahead and also apply the color.

Q: Which are Ugly Duckling best Selling Blonding color & Toners?

A: Ugly Duckling"s ideal Known Toners are provided Below. 


Intense Pearl Blonde Toner 100V top top pre-lightened hair.


Pearl Blonde Toner 10V on pre-lightened hair.


Silver Grey on pre-lightened Hair


Extra Cold Ash Blonde 10.1b on pre-lightened hair.

Q: Which space Ugly Duckling ideal Selling Fashion Colors?

A: Ugly Duckling"s ideal Selling Fashion color are given Below.


Rose Gold

Intense Violet Blonde 7.22/7VV


Ruby Red

9.23 rosy Beige Blonde 


Mix of nice Pink, Rose gold & Fuschia Pink. Accomplished on Prelightened Hair.


Violet & intense Silver Blonde 


How execute I recognize which color, bleach or toner to use?

Start by feather at her hair carefully and also doing an evaluation of the ends, mid-lengths and regrowth areas. If castle are various colors, for certain you room going to need to do different things in those areas before you can do your last coloring or toning.

You deserve to use the Ugly Duckling color Advice application to aid you do this.

What have to I perform 48 hours prior to coloring?

Nothing. Don"t also shampoo. Hair color and also bleach and also toner works best on dry, unwashed hair. The factor is the your customer"s hair produces herbal oils which aid protect the hair throughout the color process, and also especially defend the source area.

Note: If you room needing to carry out a dual process colour operation, girlfriend don"t should blow dried after bleaching. Just towel dry completely so that there is no overfill water in the hair. Ours toners do work an extremely well top top wet hair and dry.

I have actually dark hair. Exactly how light have the right to I go?

There is no limit through Ugly Duckling bleaches and toners. We have actually tutorials wherein we take customers indigenous virgin dark come ultra white platinum blonde in one session. It will certainly take time, that"s all. Over all, gain the processes and the commodities right.

I"m in search of personalized hair color choice advice. Where should I go?

Consult the Ugly Duckling shade Advice app. For hair shade ideas and also detailed recipes.

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I need advice on i m sorry developer strength to use. Where should I go?

Go here: Ugly Duckling Developer selection app.

about the author Sally Madison, National color Trainer.

Sally has actually been a hair colorist and also trainer for numerous years in both the us & Europe. She currently does hair shade training for Ugly Duckling. She likewise helps develop brand-new & awesome products for the brand.’ve to be a hairstylist because that 30 years and also I’ve tried a ton of different hair color lines to find the perfect blonde because that my clients as well as for myself...never could quite gain the level and tone i wanted, every shade I tried constantly fell just shy of where I want it...until ns tried Ugly Duckling!!! The first time I used it on a customer I think we were both skeptical, this wasn’t our first “perfect white blonde” rodeo. Yet after lightening climate toning through Ugly Duckling 100.21 + Olaplex, we rinsed, and there that was...the shade we had been looking for all along!!!! The harps played and also the angels sang!!!! i was instantly hooked top top Ugly Duckling’s awesome blonding colors and also techniques!! If, favor me, you have actually struggled to discover that perfect blonde tone perform not hesitate to shot Ugly Duckling’s beautiful blondes!! you’ll be so glad you did!! thanks Ugly Duckling!!